Lincoln Mk VII Rear Disc Brake Conversion for Early Mustang & Ford 8- & 9-inch Rear Ends
Some back ground on how this conversion all came about...
Back in 1997, I had an '89 5.0L Mustang GT. Like all the '87-'93 GT/LX 5.0L Mustangs, mine had drum brakes on the rear. I went to the wrecking yard and pirated a set of axles and disc brake assemblies from a Lincoln Mk VII.
However, before I could get around to installing the Mk VII rear disc components onto the rear of the '89 GT, the GT was stolen --never to be recovered.
Move ahead now to 1999...
In 1999, My friend Randy Rawls brought me his '67 Mustang notchback and hired me to install some Granada front disc brakes on it --like the ones I had on my own Mustang, and like I had installed on several other Mustangs in this area. Randy knew that at some point, later on, he was going to want to install some rear disc brakes on his Mustang. However, at that time, he simply couldn't swing for a set of high-dollar aftermarket rear discs. We talked about how it would sure be nice if there was a more economical (wrecking yard) alternative to the high-priced aftermarket rear discs.
This is when I started thinking about those Mk VII rear discs I still had in the shop that was supposed to be installed on the now defunct '89 GT.
After taking some measurements of the end flange on a 1959 Ford Fairlane 9-inch Small Axle Bearing Housing (same as '65-'73 Mustang 8- & 9-inch rear end housing), and taking some measurements from the Mk VII rear disc components, I sat down and began sketching out a bracket design that would allow the Mk VII rear disc assemblies to be adapted to the earlier Ford's rear end housing.
I took it from a sketch, and then transfered it to a template, and then to an actual adapter bracket.
Back in 1997, I had an '89 5.0L Mustang GT. Like all the '87-'93 GT/LX 5.0L Mustangs, mine had drum brakes on the rear. I went to the wrecking yard and pirated a set of axles and disc brake assemblies from a Lincoln Mk VII.
However, before I could get around to installing the Mk VII rear disc components onto the rear of the '89 GT, the GT was stolen --never to be recovered.
Move ahead now to 1999...
In 1999, My friend Randy Rawls brought me his '67 Mustang notchback and hired me to install some Granada front disc brakes on it --like the ones I had on my own Mustang, and like I had installed on several other Mustangs in this area. Randy knew that at some point, later on, he was going to want to install some rear disc brakes on his Mustang. However, at that time, he simply couldn't swing for a set of high-dollar aftermarket rear discs. We talked about how it would sure be nice if there was a more economical (wrecking yard) alternative to the high-priced aftermarket rear discs.
This is when I started thinking about those Mk VII rear discs I still had in the shop that was supposed to be installed on the now defunct '89 GT.
After taking some measurements of the end flange on a 1959 Ford Fairlane 9-inch Small Axle Bearing Housing (same as '65-'73 Mustang 8- & 9-inch rear end housing), and taking some measurements from the Mk VII rear disc components, I sat down and began sketching out a bracket design that would allow the Mk VII rear disc assemblies to be adapted to the earlier Ford's rear end housing.
I took it from a sketch, and then transfered it to a template, and then to an actual adapter bracket.
Once I saw everything would infact bolt up, I just kind of pushed everything aside and shelved the project.
Move forward now, to the middle of January, 2002...
Glen Buzek & I had been talking (via e-mail to one another) for nearly a year by this time. Back in January of 2002, we both discussed the fact that we both wanted to do the "Explorer" rear disc swap on our Mustangs.
I knew this Explorer swap (with a few modifications) would work on the particular version of Versailles rear end I have under my '68, but after receiving some photos of the rear end under Glen's '65 Mustang, (1980 Granada 9-inch Small Axle Bearing drum brake rear end), I knew the Explorer rear disc swap wasn't going to work on Glen's 9-inch Granada rear end housing.
It was at this point that I told Glen about a project I had worked on concerning adapting some Lincoln Mk VII rear disc brakes onto the housing ends of an early Ford rear end --without any brackets being welded on! ...this was all strictly bolt on stuff!
Glen was very interested in this prospect, and asked if I would send him more details on it. One thing led to another, and the end result is what you are about to see in the pictures that follow!
OPERATION: "BINDER GRINDER". FROM STOCK REAR DRUMS, TO LINCOLN MK VII REAR DISCS!
Stock'65-'66 Mustang drum brake assembly and 28-spline axle from an 8-inch rear end installed in a 1959 Ford Fairlane 9-inch Medium Bearing rear end housing. (This '59 Ford 9-inch housing formerly owned by ultrastang).
With the drum & axle removed, it´s time to take the parking/emergency brake cable loose. Remove the cable's end from the rear shoe's lever, then remove the cable from the drum brake's backing plate. TIP: Notice the small diameter hose clamp on the barbs of the parking brake cable. This is a trick I discovered that helps tremendously! Tighten the clamp just enough to compress all the barbs, then pull the cable out through the backing plate hole.
Presto!
Now, with the parking brake cable loose, the drum brake backing plate can be removed once the (4) bearing retainer nuts are removed (on a Small Bearing Housing, it will require a 9/16-inch socket). Don't forget to take the brake line loose from the drum brake wheel cylinder.
Now, you can pull the axle out of the housing. While the axle is out, this is a good opportunity for you to check the axle bearing condition. Place your thumb on the outer portion and give it a swift spinning action.
If the bearing freewheels for more than 1½ revolutions, REPLACE IT!
These sealed bearings are lubricated for the life of the bearing and should have a fair amount of "drag" or "resistance" to spinning freely. A bearing that freewheels indicates that most of the original lubrication has been lost.
In the picture below, I'm pressing the new bearing onto the axle (axle bearing for this application is BCA p/n RW-207-CCRA).
After the new bearing is pressed on, it´s time to press the retainer on. Notice the old retainer to the left. I took a die-grinder & removed a few thousandths from the I.D. of the old retainer.
I then used it as a tool to press the new bearing onto the axle with. Since the bearing retainer lines up perfectly with the bearing´s center hub, this keeps stress off of the axle bearing (see picture above).
Note: DO NOT press BOTH the bearing & the retainer on at the same time!
Remove the old axle seal & install a new one. New axle bearing & axle seal are ready for action!
Time to put the axle back in the housing.
Slide the end flange spacer (takes the place of what used to be occupied by the old drum brake backing plate) & the new end flange gasket on (in that order). (Small Bearing end flange gasket is under Fel-Pro p/n 55001).
Put the axle assembly back into the housing.
TIP: when putting the axle back in the housing, hold up on the axle to keep the full weight of it off the axle seal as the axle is slid in. Dragging the full weight of the axle across the seal leads to premature seal failure & causes leaky seals!
TIP: when putting the axle back in the housing, hold up on the axle to keep the full weight of it off the axle seal as the axle is slid in. Dragging the full weight of the axle across the seal leads to premature seal failure & causes leaky seals!
With the 3/8-inch bolt installed through the housing flange, slide the spacer over the bolt's threaded end.
Now, its time to install the (4) 3/8-inch bolts through the access hole (in the axle flange) and then through the housing's end flange.
When all the 3/8-inch bolts and spacers are in place, It´s time to install the main caliper anchor plate adapter bracket. Slide it over the (3) 3/8-inch bolts and up against the spacers. (do not tighten the 3/8inch bolts yet).
Take one of the splash shields and drill a 25/64ths-inch hole in the center of the shield where the inner curve fits around the axle tube.
Install the shield with the 2½" long 3/8-inch bolt sticking through the hole in the lower left-hand portion of the housning end flange (looking at the left side of the vehicle).
Place a 3/8-inch flat washer & nut on the bolt and tighten it up just enough to put tension on the splash shield so that it doesn't flop around.
Line the inner curve up evenly around the axle tube, then clamp the shield to the caliper anchor plate adapter.
Using the ½" upper hole in the anchor plate adapter as a guide, drill a ½" hole through the splash shield. (go slow, so the ½" drill bit doesn't tear the hole in the thin metal of the splash shield as the drill bit passes all the way through).
After drilling the ½" hole in the upper portion of the shield, stick one of the 12mm bolts through this hole to keep things lined up.
Now, drill the lower ½" hole through the splash shield.
Picture below, unmodified splash shield on the left. Modified shield on the right.
1.) 25/64ths-inch hole in center, near inner curve where shield fits around axle tube.
2.) ½" holes on either side of the trailing portions of the shield
3.) "Notch" to clear lower caliper anchor plate adapter bolt/nut.
1.) 25/64ths-inch hole in center, near inner curve where shield fits around axle tube.
2.) ½" holes on either side of the trailing portions of the shield
3.) "Notch" to clear lower caliper anchor plate adapter bolt/nut.
After priming, painting & reinstalling the splash shield next install the caliper anchor plate to the adapter. Start with the bottom hole and insert the M12 x 1.75 x 35mm bolt from the backside with the threads facing outward. Start the threads into the anchor plate, but don´t tighten the 12mm bolt yet.
Next, the parking brake cable anchor bracket has to be installed.
Start by placing (5) 3/8-inch washers (shims) over upper right-hand bolt in the housing end flange, then place the smaller hole in the bracket on the upper right-hand bolt sticking through the end flange (looking at the driver's side of the vehicle).
Rotate the parking cable bracket forward so the ½" hole in the bracket aligns with the ½" hole in the splash shield & caliper anchor plate.
Install (3) ½" flat washers (shims) between the bracket & the back of the splash shield. Insert the M12 x 1.75 x 50mm bolt through the holes and thread the bolt into the caliper anchor plate hand tight.
Once all the brackets and bolt-on items are in place, the bolts can then be torqued.
The 3/8"-24 nuts should be torqued to 29 ft/lbs. (approx. 40 N-m). The 12mm bolts should be torqued to 110 ft/lbs.. (approx. 150 N-m).
Start by placing (5) 3/8-inch washers (shims) over upper right-hand bolt in the housing end flange, then place the smaller hole in the bracket on the upper right-hand bolt sticking through the end flange (looking at the driver's side of the vehicle).
Rotate the parking cable bracket forward so the ½" hole in the bracket aligns with the ½" hole in the splash shield & caliper anchor plate.
Install (3) ½" flat washers (shims) between the bracket & the back of the splash shield. Insert the M12 x 1.75 x 50mm bolt through the holes and thread the bolt into the caliper anchor plate hand tight.
Once all the brackets and bolt-on items are in place, the bolts can then be torqued.
The 3/8"-24 nuts should be torqued to 29 ft/lbs. (approx. 40 N-m). The 12mm bolts should be torqued to 110 ft/lbs.. (approx. 150 N-m).
Install the anti-rattle spring and the inner brake pad.
Install the Lincoln Mk VII 11 1/4" rotor.
Install the outer brake pad.
Here is a shot of the Mk VII´s caliper disassembled. Clean the calipers piston and bore with denatured alcohol. Inspect piston bore for pits or scratches. If it is ok, then apply a thin film of clean brake fluid. (notice caliper anchor plate in back ground).
Caliper rebuild kit:
Reassemble caliper with new seals.
Coat piston & seals with a thin film of clean brake fluid just prior to assembly. (notice large 2 1/8" stainless steel piston).
Coat piston & seals with a thin film of clean brake fluid just prior to assembly. (notice large 2 1/8" stainless steel piston).
Chuck the flexible brake line up in a vise (protect the brass end from the vise jaws), and with a hammer & chisel carefully remove just enough material from around the edges of the rectangular pad to be able to remove the stamped steel bracket from the flexible hose.
Install the hose onto the caliper BEFORE installing the caliper onto the anchor plate.
Install the hose onto the caliper BEFORE installing the caliper onto the anchor plate.
Install the caliper (with flexible hose already attached) to the anchor plate. Snug the caliper guide pins up with a T-45 Torx bit.
This is the stock Mk VII parking brake cable-to-caliper-lever linkage:
To remove the linkage from the Mk VII (when you get the parts from the wrecking yard), simply cut the brake cable.
Feed the old existing drum brake parking brake cable through the hole in the cable anchor bracket.
Cut a narrow slot (approx. 1/8th-inch) in the cable linkage with a 3-inch cut-off wheel having a 1/8" thick abrasive disc.
Position the slot in the linkage over the cable and slide the cable through the slot and into the hole in the center.
Attach the cable/linkage to the parking lever on the back of the caliper.
Now, its time to make some new brake lines.
I used a piece of 12 ga. Romex electrical wire as a pattern to bend the new tubing by. Start with a straight piece of wire and route it the way you want the tubing to follow on the rear end housing.
Once you have your hard line bent, cut it to length. (I started out with a 60-inch stick of 3/16-inch brake line tubing).
After you cut the tubing, ream the inside to remove any burrs.
Take a file and lightly chamfer the outer edge on the end of the tubing.
Slide the inverted flare nut fittings on (first), then double flare the tubing ends. (nuttin' to it!)
Screw the 1/4" male-to-3/16" female inverted flare adapter fitting (NAPA/Weatherhead p/n 7818) into the end of the flexible brake line, then attach the hard line's fitting to the adapter. (note, apply a thin coating of anti-seize on the threads, before putting the fittings together, to make it easier to get the fittings apart if the components have to be serviced on down the road).
Take a wire tie and tie the flexible brake line's end to the barbs on the parking brake cable.
Another quality modification!!
This is what the Lincoln Mk VII rear disc setup adapted to a vintage Mustang looks like --It's complete with a parking brake AND with the Lincoln Mk VII's stock splash shields installed!
This retrofit upgrade brought to you by Ultrastang Performance & Rosehill Performance Parts.
* Link to a customer who used our bracket kit to install the Mk VII rear discs on his fastback: http://www.midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/Rear_Brakes.htm